ZERO WASTE Bow Top - Hack PDF - ADD ON TO 'ZW CROPPED SHIRT' • PDF Pattern

Garment Details:  This hack is based on the ZW Cropped Shirt pattern. The neck and centre front edges of the top are finished with a binding and close with thin ties. The sleeve features gathers at the hem with a split and thin ties to close. 

Sizing: This is a ONE SIZE garment, with the determined by the fabric width used. It comes with 2 different cutting plans allowing you to use both narrow and wide fabric widths. 

Choose which plan to use based on the FABRIC WIDTH you are using.

-CUTTING PLAN A is suitable for narrower widths, 110-115cm / 43-45”. This layout is suitable for a bust circumference of up to 115cm / 45” (this includes a generous amount of ease). If you want to make this suitable for a larger bust you can add to the length of the cutting plan the amount extra that you need. The instruction booklet includes more details on how to do this.

-CUTTING PLAN B is suitable for wider widths, 120-150cm / 47-59”. The size of this garment is determined by the fabric width. See below for the maximum recommended bust circumference by fabric width. This allows for a generous amount of ease.

Fabric Width : Maximum Bust Circumference

120cm / 47" : 95cm / 37"

125cm / 49" : 100cm / 39"

130cm / 51" : 105cm / 41"

135cm / 53" : 110cm / 43"

140cm / 55" : 115cm / 45"

145cm / 57" : 120cm / 47"

150cm / 59" : 125cm / 49"

Fabric Suggestions: Use a light weight cotton or linen in a width of between 110 - 150cm / 43 - 59”. The length/usage required is based on the fabric width you are using, refer to the CUTTING PLAN A and B for more. You will also need quite a lot of bias binding strips cut for the binding and ties. If you want this to match allow for a little extra fabric on top of the main layout to cut your own binding from.

Fabric requirements: 

110cm - 115cm / 43" - 45" : 140cm / 55"

120cm - 150cm / 47" - 59" : 95cm / 37.5"

Tools & trims recommended: Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

This top requires bias binding strips for the neck binding and ties. You can either buy this by the meter in a light weight contrast fabric OR if you want these to match the main fabric allow for an extra length of fabric and cut your own.

The total lengths of bias strips you will need are: Binding- 4cm x 260cm / 1.5” x 103” and Ties- 2.5cm x 330cm / 1” x 130”

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

Explore other makes on insta #zwcroppedshirt, #zwbowtop

SLEEVELESS HACK

FINISHING THE UNDER-ARM NEATLY

FINISHING SEAMS NEATLY

(VERY) GATHERED SLEEVE HACK FOR ZW CROPPED SHIRT OR ZW GATHER DRESS

HOW TO SEW FACINGS INTO THE ZW CROPPED SHIRT AND ZW GATHER DRESS

HOW TO SEW THE NECK BAND ONTO THE ZW GATHER DRESS AND ZW CROPPED SHIRT

The Method: Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility 
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste

Photo credits: Birgitta Helmersson Studio