ZERO WASTE Soft Blouse • PDF Pattern

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By Birgitta Helmersson, ZW Soft Blouse is a PDF sewing pattern.

File Name: ZW Soft Blouse|Type: ZIPSize: 6.2MB 

Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Garment Details: This is an oversized top made using Zero Waste Pattern Cutting. It has a dropped shoulder and comes with 2 sleeve options, a gathered and twisted double layer sleeve, or a long sleeve with a gathered and elasticated wrist. The front has side bust darts for shaping. The neckline is a minimal crew neck finished with a back bind and a split with loop and button at the centre back to close.

This pattern also comes with 2 hack options, a sleeveless top with darts on the shoulder for shaping and a dress with V-neck front, side pockets and gathered skirt. All pattern options in this book are easily mixed and matched.

Sizing: This pattern comes in 3 size ranges with all sizes included in the one pattern. Sizes in this pattern include: EU 36/38/40, EU 42/44/46, EU 48/50/52. Sizing and finished garment measurements can be found here.

Fabric Suggestions: This style works beautifully in a woven fabric, approximately 80-160gsm in a light weight linen, cotton, silk or viscose. The twisted sleeve with gathers into the armhole can become quite bulky if the fabric is too thick so be mindful of this when choosing something. 

Recommended Fabric widths by size: 

EU 36/38/40 : 110-145cm (43-57 inches)

EU 42/44/46 : 125-145cm (49-57 inches)

EU 48/50/52 : 135-155cm (53-61 inches)

Fabric requirements: 

EU 36/38/40 :Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm (54 1/2 inch), Long Sleeve (Option D): 126cm (50 inch)

EU 42/44/46 :Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm (55 inch), Long Sleeve (Option D): 139cm (54 1/2 inch)

EU 48/50/52 :Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm (56 inch), Long Sleeve (Option D): 152cm (60 1/2 inch)

Tools & trims recommended: Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler. One button approx 10mm-12mm (1/2 inch) wide, 75 - 85cm (29 1/2 - 33 1/2 inch) length of lightweight binding/bias strip, in a 30mm (1 1/8 inch) width. You can cut your own using an off-cut or contrast fabric, if cutting your own you will need a length of fabric approx 50cm (19 inch) in order to cut a long enough strip on the bias. If cutting your own consider cutting as many strips as you can from the same length of fabric and save for future projects where binding is required. If you are purchasing ready cut binding on a roll by the metre make sure you choose something that is light weight. Templates are provided for cutting your binding and are different for each size.

Skill Level: 1.5 out of 5 - Advanced beginner. Techniques Used: Gathers, darts, loop and button and back binding, elastic into a casing.

Tutorials:  ZW Soft Blouse Back Binding

PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both centimetres (cm) and inches ("). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. You only need to print the CUTTING PLAN booklet in your size, which is a 7-8 page document.

The Method: Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste!

Explore other makes on insta #zwsoftblouse  #zwsoftdresss

Photo credits: Birgitta Helmersson Studio

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