ZERO WASTE Bell Jacket • PDF Pattern

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By Birgitta Helmersson, ZW Bell Jacket is a PDF sewing pattern.

File Name: ZW Bell Jacket|Type: ZIPSize: 10.4MB

Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Tier Dress requires printing of 15-18 pages in A4/US Letter Paper. 

Garment Details: This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. The Bell jacket gets it’s name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

There are 2 size options for this jacket with slight design variations between each. The size TWO has 2 panels at the centre back body and has more of a dropped shoulder than the size ONE.

This pattern has links embedded into the PDF Instruction booklet taking you to to online tutorials with colour images to help with most of the more involved sewing instructions.  It also comes with 2 hack options, a shirt with a square collar and a quilted version, un-lined. Both of these have online tutorials for the extra steps. 

SizingThis is an oversized shape with 2 size ranges. The maximum bust/hip for each size depends on the fabric width you use. Suitable for up to a 152cm / 60" hip. There are also tips in the Instruction Booklet for making adjustments to the pattern to size up further.

Size One

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 96cm / 38", max hip 101cm / 40"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 101cm / 40", max hip 108cm / 42"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 106cm / 42", max hip 111cm / 44"

Size Two

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 133cm / 52", max hip 142cm / 56"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 138cm / 54", max hip 147cm / 58"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 143cm / 56", max hip 152cm / 60"

Fabric Suggestions: Ideal in a wool or heavy weight denim or heavy cotton drill. Recommended linings, something with a bit of weight that has a nice drape. Required lining width is very specific and is based on the OUTER  fabric width you are using.

OUTER: Recommended Widths: 145cm-155cm / 57-61 inches

LINING: Widths based on OUTER width used.

145cm / 57” OUTER = 135cm / 53” LINING

150cm / 59” OUTER = 140cm / 55” LINING

155cm / 61” OUTER = 145cm / 57”  LINING

Fabric requirements: This is a guide only, these yardage requirements may change a little if you want to adjust the lengths of the sleeves and body. Refer to the Instruction Booklet for more.

SIZE ONE: Outer- 130cm / 51", Lining- 120cm / 47"

SIZE TWO: Outer- 150cm / 59", Lining- 140cm / 55"

Tools & trims recommended: FUSING/INTERFACING: Iron on fusing in a mid-heavy weight. Required to fuse the hems and collar. More on fusing in the ‘Cutting Plan’ document.

BINDING 4cm / 1.5” wide to finish the centre front bodies and back neck facing, you will require approximately 150cm / 59”.

4-5 BUTTONS approx. 20mm / 3/4” in size.

 Skill Level: Intermediate


Inverted Box Pleat

Sewing the body and sleeve

Patch pockets

Sewing the lining

Sewing the collar

Attaching the collar

Hand stitching the collar

Bagging out hems

The Method: Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility

This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste!

*This pattern is for personal and non-profit use only and should not be used for commercial purposes in any way.

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Photo credits: Birgitta Helmersson Studio

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