ZERO WASTE Coat • PDF Pattern

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By Birgitta Helmersson, ZW Coat is a PDF sewing pattern.

File Name: ZW Coat|Type: ZIPSize: 13.9MB 

Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Garment Details: The ZW coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this. This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.

Sizing This is a one size pattern, Size ONE:  EU 36-44. Sizing and finished garment measurements can be found here.

Fabric Suggestions: Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.

Recommended Fabric width: 145–160 cm (57–63 inches)

Fabric requirements: Fabric requirements can be found here.

Tools & trims recommendedSewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

-Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres/118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.

-Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2-2.5cm (¾–1 inch).

-Iron on fusing, approx 25cm (10 inches). Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.

-Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.

-Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this. 

Skill Level: 1.5 out of 5 - Advanced beginner

Techniques used: Button holes, patch pockets, binding seams (optional), attaching a collar, hand sewing (optional)


 PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. Templates for the ZW Coat are provided in a separate document. 

The Method: Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility

This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns

Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste!

Explore other makes on insta  #zwcoat

Photo credits: Birgitta Helmersson Studio

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